Thursday, 19 November 2009

Kenzo Creative Diector Antonio Marras, Dazed Digital, November 2009


View article at Dazed Digital


Joining Kenzo in 2003 and effectively reimagining the womenswear line, Antonio Marras graduated to overall creative director of the label, originally set up in the 70s by Kenzo Takada, in 2008. Given full artistic direction on all aspects of the brand, adding childrenswear, homeware, accessories and menswear to his previous output, Marras has firmly taken hold of Kenzo and molded it in his own vision.
His first menswear show, which graced the catwalk back at the beginning of this year, was a directional collection that laid the groundwork for Marras’ concept. Describing the ethos behind his ‘Kenzo universe’ as being “not about a Kenzo family but more about a Kenzo tribe” Marras sees the Kenzo man as someone “…who has a kind of natural twisted elegance, a modern take on the dandy; a man who can make a classical style unique”.
True to his vision, this season’s menswear collection has taken 19th century explorer Pierre de Brazza as the starting point. De Brazza is credited with being the man that discovered the Congo through one of his many self funded expeditions, and a gentleman that played by his own rules. Seeing out his quest for new lands and a further understanding of the world on his own terms, “Pierre de Brazza was someone that travelled in a very humane way and was very much respectful of the local people. He was an idealist and for this reason he was the perfect Kenzo man, a cosmopolitan dandy” says Antonio.


Kenzo Menswear SS10 - Backstage photography by Claire Robertson

Taking inspiration from the images conjured up when he thought of travelling across the desert, Marras has incorporated this aesthetic both in the choice of palette – muted hues “as if the colours were faded away by the sun, by the wind and the sand” – and in the styling, shape and volume of the garments. Looser yet still beautifully tailored soft cotton blazers and jackets combine with washed knits and wider, ankle length linen trousers, to give off a relaxed yet elegant feel. An image that is very much akin to the romantic vision associated with late 19th and early 20th century British colonials.
Grey’s, off white’s, khaki and washed out slate blue all feature heavily in the collection, lifting the clothes and allowing them to stand out while at the same time being understated and refined. Across the collection detailing includes elaborate yet masculine floral and leaf prints, multiple pockets and buttons adding a very slight military feel along with draped, low-slung collars. “I wanted the clothes to look as if they were exposed to the sun and the wind for hours, so overall they look looser and older. I wanted to associate more fitted cuts with more comfortable pieces to create contrasts. It is the wardrobe of an explorer; it has to be comfortable and therefore looser. In my head these clothes are a part of ‘him’ so they carry the signs of his life, his marching and trekking through the desert” explains Antonio.


Kenzo Menswear SS10 - Backstage photography by Claire Robertson

Kenzo has always been a label with personality, a look that is at the same time classic and accessible while maintaining a connection to themes at the forefront of each season’s mood. Marras is very much aware of this heritage of the label and the aesthetic with which Kenzo has always been associated, but concurrently acknowledges the direction in which he wants to take it. “There are things I absolutely want to take forward with me from Kenzo’s history. For instance the mixing of different cultures, what the French call the “métissage”, and the “joie de vivre” philosophy of the brand. I never wanted to make a revolution at the label, but at the same time I want to take Kenzo into modernity, yet keeping all of its codes and values. It is a very special house with a unique DNA and I have always thought I had to continue it, not erase it” divulges Marras. “Brands are nothing without a strong identity. Everyone can make nice clothes nowadays; brands have to give more than just nice design. They have to offer a vision, a universe, and a signature. Kenzo has always had strong values and heritage, but now it is my turn with the house and I’m just trying to take them forward, in my own way”.

Wednesday, 18 November 2009

Jaiden rVa James, Dazed & Confused, December 2009




Showing as part of the Menswear Installation for the second time running at last seasons London Fashion Week, Jaiden rVa James’ presentation injected the proceedings with a hotly anticipated dose of edge and colour. Skin tight rubber outfits, made up of vest, super short shorts and matching full face spiked hoods, in rich, lucid yellow, red, and blue, were paraded through Somerset House by the labels two young designers.
Providing a vivid contrast to the surrounding classical architecture, the presentation gained the duo, Rasharn d’Vera Agyman and Jaiden James, some impressively positive and high profile attention. With Dazed’s own Creative Director Nicola Formichetti alongside Lady GaGa, already credited as fans, these boys are definitely headed for big things.
Taking their inspiration for S/S10 from outsider youth culture, the pair researched photographs and artwork focusing on how teenagers represent themselves today. “The collection is called Youth by Youth, it was about being young and not fitting in. The main inspiration came from Ryan Mcginley and Larry Clark’s pictures of wild and alternative kids. It wasn’t a celebration of youth nor the mourning of its passing, we wanted it to be somewhere in-between the two” explains Jaiden. “That’s also what the hoods were about, in a way. We wanted them to sit between the beautiful and the scary, to represent the angst and strife that adolescents go through”.
Living in the same apartment block Jaiden and Rasharn met completely by chance. The pair quickly discovered they had a mutual creative passion and decided to collaborate, “we both had really strong ideas about clothes but more importantly we both wanted to inject some new energy into menswear” explains Rasharn.
The collaboration’s resulting line looks at men’s fashion from a fresh, directional but still accessible perspective. While their recent LFW presentation might have been something of a showpiece, the rest of the boys work has been on point for incorporating an edgy element into a definitely wearable look. “We want to explore each item in a different and new way while maintaining an understanding of how the fit and cut are of the utmost importance to the wearers body” comments Jaiden on the label’s ethos.
It’s obvious that these designers are focused on taking things one step further with menswear, but at the same time Jaiden and Rasharn clearly know what a guy feels comfortable wearing.
Jaiden rVa James is a rare breed of men’s label. One that is willing to take risks and push boundaries, but one that doesn’t have a burning desire to push it’s look from the sublime, to the ridiculous.

Tuesday, 3 November 2009

Rankin's Cheeky - Book of Rankin's erotica photography published by Te Neues: Interview with Tuuli, Rankin's model, muse and wife, October 2009






WO - How many times have you worked with Rankin?
TS - (Laughs) So many times I can’t possibly remember exactly. We did a couple of shoots shortly after we first met, but since we became a couple nearly four years ago we have shot countless times. At one point, when we were doing the book Tuulitastic we shot constantly. Even now if he just needs a girl to come in and do a test, I’ll do it, because I love working with him.

WO - Do you shoot mainly shoot erotica together?
TS - It’s a mixture. We have done some fashion stories as well but I think now it is such a part of our relationship, and our relationship through film, that it’s always erotic in a way. We did an ice cream ad recently and even that could be seen as erotic. I mean I was having cream sprayed at me, but also the tension between us comes through in the pictures.

WO - Had you done any erotica before you met Rankin?
TS - No, but he just made me feel so comfortable that in no way did he have to persuade me. The first nude shoot we did together was for Arena Magazine, six years ago. Even now when I look back at those photographs they are definitely some of my favourites. They have a real life to them, sexy and powerful but beautiful as well.
That is what his work is though, and what it always has - something more to it.

WO - How do you feel about your erotica photography being seen by the public?
TS - There are a couple of images that I really haven’t liked, and I have asked for them not to go out, which Rankin always understands.
There are other images that I have found difficult, but that’s fine because I do get them and I understand them. Sometimes it can be very much his opinion of me and perhaps that is not how I see myself. Everyone sees something different in people and I understand that.
Before that first Arena shoot he called me up and said “So the circulation of Arena is about X thousand? So at least double that amount of people are going to see this shoot. Out of that number about 20 percent are men that are going to wank over you. How do you feel about that?” At the time I replied, “just shut up, too much information”. But now I honestly don’t think about it. You just can’t picture it, its not very real. Also when I am doing the erotica shoots in the studio, ultimately I am being someone else, I am acting out a part that is a piece of me, but not completely me. It is quite detached.
I have fan mail people have sent, with pictures of me completely naked and they ask me to sign it and send it back to them. That is pretty strange, but it’s ok.

WO - What do find strange about that?
TS - That they have actually bothered! With any kind of modeling though, you ultimately do it to look sexy, look hot and to be seen. If I had a problem with the erotica being seen then I would have a problem with modeling full stop.
These pictures aren’t just some girl standing there, bland, naked, pouting. These pictures have got something to them, they are very beautiful and I am proud of them as images. I am so happy to have done them, and therefore happy to have them seen. I couldn’t be happier with Tuulitastic; I think it is a real testament to our relationship. It is exactly what it says on the cover, ‘a photographic love letter’.

WO – There is such a strong sexual tension in some of the images. Do you find it a turn on when you are shooting them?
TS - It is performing for your boyfriend and that is erotic and I enjoy it, but I don’t know that it physically turns me on. Because of our relationship it’s a form of extended foreplay similar in part to a girl getting dressed in the morning and flashing a bit of underwear at her boyfriend. A kind of hint to what may come later.
When you are in the studio shooting you’re concentrating so hard on getting it right and there are so many people around - hair, make up, stylists, assistants - it takes the eroticism out of it. It is creating a highly orchestrated and beautiful image and it takes a lot of work to get that.
Ultimately if I did get turned on in that situation it would be voyeurism and I’m not really into that, I wouldn’t want to be watched. I generally get more turned on when its just the two of us. Which is fair enough.
We have done shoots with just him and me, on our own, and that is a very different thing. We did one in a hotel room in Russia for a lingerie advert. I did my own hair and make up and we did it in a very candid style. That was very intimate and that did turn me on more. Really that was just about being in an amazing hotel room, in Moscow, with your boyfriend.
When you have got hair and make up and his assistants holding lights I would have to say it doesn’t turn me on.

WO - But you can feel a tension…?
TS – Yes of course, it’s exciting and fun. You’re showing off for your boyfriend. I am basically saying ‘look at me look at me, I look amazing!’. There is a whole performance aspect to it. And my performance is totally for him, he is completely focused on me, looking at me through a lens, and that creates a real sense of tension between the two of you.
I know what he likes, from a photography point of view, and I like doing that for him. I am very good at picking up on his mood and what he wants from me, and vice versa. I am completely willing to give him what he wants in front of the camera because I am in love with him. ‘I’ll do anything for you baby…’(laughs)
The love of his life is his photography, he is addicted to his work and to be so involved in that is fantastic. When you see really great pictures that you have done together, that you have collaborated on, it’s a very satisfying feeling. We have done so much now, we both love working together so much and it is such a part of our relationship that I think it would be a real shame if we didn’t get the chance to do that. It would almost feel like there was something missing.

WO - The photographs made out of the studio, in hotel rooms etc, seem more about documenting a moment between the two of you. How do you feel about those pictures being seen by the public?
TS – (Laughs…) We edit them. A lot.
Actually, I’m completely fine with it. I was originally quite funny about the first ones we made in that sort of situation going out, because it is actually very obvious what was going on. Now I don’t mind at all, they are not just gratuitous, and there is something so beautiful in them.
Its strange, I actually feel very safe when we are photographing them because I respect Rankin and how he will take the pictures. If you had asked me six years ago what I thought about having images of such an intimate moment being seen by so many people, I would have said I would have felt very exposed and vulnerable. Now it is actually not like that at all because I am so safe in our relationship and trust him and his judgment completely.
I know that if it came down to it and there were pictures that I jus didn’t want to be seen, they wouldn’t go anywhere. There are definitely photographs that haven’t gone anywhere.

WO - What do you get back from shooting erotica?
TS - It is very liberating. I previously thought I could never do underwear shoots, let alone nudity, but your perception changes. I don’t think it’s half as taboo as people believe. Rankin’s erotica is especially beautiful; it has something more behind it. The girls’ in his photographs are not just objects on a page.
It can also be very challenging and I like the amount of work I have to put into it. You are magnifying an emotion, feeding off a mood and expanding on it. You know what your face looks like in a particular expression, you understand that certain body movements say certain things and you learn how to garner an emotion. You have to really put your all into it otherwise erotic photography becomes flat. Very easily you can just have one element out of place and the image becomes so much more page three.

WO - What is it that makes these photographs stand out from glamour photography?
TS – The quality of the photography is amazing! The lighting, the production values, they are beautiful, stunning, images. There is so much more depth to them than simply a girl with her tits out. Glamour photography is purely about serving a purpose and satisfying a need. Rankin’s erotica goes a lot deeper than that.
There is a feeling and a mood that is being conveyed and Rankin always manages to show the personality of the model. I think a lot of the girls that shoot glamour photography are pretty much interchangeable because ultimately they are just little dress up dolls.
When you go for a casting for any job with Rankin there is a questionnaire to answer with some general questions about you as a person. Sometimes he asks you to draw a picture; he wants to find out about the girl and her personality. You find with some models that it is very hard to get who they are out of them on film. Rankin wants someone who wants to work with him and has something to them, because he knows that’s when he gets the best pictures. He wants somebody who has more than just beauty; they have to have a spark, and that comes through in the photographs.

WO - Do you think it has given you a confidence that you didn’t have before?
TS - It really has. Its funny when we were shooting Tuulitastic together we did so many nude shoots that when I went to do a fashion editorial spread, and I put on a dress I just didn’t know what to do with it. I had become so comfortable shooting nude.
If you don’t have something to hide behind, you don’t have any props, you do become more confident in front of the camera. When you are shooting erotica you are metaphorically, and obviously literally, stripped bare. You have to really delve deep inside yourself, and that does breed a huge amount of confidence.

Friday, 16 October 2009

Carsten Nicolai - Unitxt, The Art Newspaper - Frieze Art Fair editions, October 2009



German artist Carsten Nicolai is showing a site-specific version of his project Unitxt at London’s Sketch Gallery, and is performing a live concert at the venue at noon this weekend (Saturday 17 October), the show’s closing date.
The piece, which has been adapted to fit the constraints of the space, was originally composed as an album, released in 2008, with a subsequent live performance. Unitxt is an experimental work that examines the process of converting digital files into sound. Developing software that creates an audible version of files from computer programmes such as Word, Excel and PowerPoint, Nicolai has incorporated the results into edited, audibly accessible loops and segments. “The Sketch piece is a kind of installation version of the Unitxt performance,” says Nicolai. “You may recognise all the elements from its previous version, but they are arranged differently here, and generated by the software as opposed to being controlled by me. There are regular elements programmed into the work, but there is also a degree of it that is constantly changing with random combinations.”
Taking his original creative process one step further for the version at Sketch, Nicolai has designed a system to create visual representations of the sound in the form of projections on the walls. “We built a special programme to run the visual software and hardware in real time so what you see is not video,” he says. “It is all in real time, generated by the soundtrack, and the soundtrack is ‘composed’ by the software on a 24-minute loop.”
The resulting combination of abstract sound and visual elements that make up the Sketch installation is reflective of the artist’s approach as a whole. Nicolai’s interest is in creating work that is, at least in part, digitally self-manufacturing. Works such as Unitxt provide a sensory bombardment that examines technological advancement in art and the viewer’s resulting emotional response.
Originally training as a landscape architect, Nicolai began to experiment with sound and digital images during the early 1990s. He co-founded the experimental Voxxx cultural centre in his hometown of Chemnitz, Germany, in 1992, and later established the record label Raster-Noton in collaboration with Olaf Bender and Frank Bretschneider. Providing a platform for the output of digital sound experimentation, the roster of those associated with the record label includes numerous internationally celebrated artists and experimental musicians—Wolfgang Voigt, Sleeparchive, Signal, Ryoji Ikeda, Ryuichi Sakamoto (from pioneering 1970s Japanese electronics act Yellow Magic Orchestra) and Nicolai himself all regularly release, perform and collaborate through Raster-Noton.
Nicolai sees the label as akin to a non-profit organisation, describing it as “artist-run and not working on a commercial master plan; it never has been and never will. We see it as a platform to distribute ideas”. This ethos, along with a dedication to the scientific experimentation of digital art forms, has led the Raster-Noton artists to present numerous high-profile presentations at events such as Venice Biennale, Istanbul Biennial and Documenta X, as well as at London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts and Tate Modern, and New York’s PS.1 Contemporary Art Centre.
Alongside Nicolai’s museum-based presentations, the artist also regularly performs in traditional music venues under his performance name Alva Noto. Not wanting to draw a distinction between art and music, he describes his output as a crossover form that can sit comfortably in either viewing space. “For myself I don't need these definitions, it is not important for the work,” he says. “I see the space I perform in as purely functional. The museum is perfect for installation art shows and the club for music and sound performances. In simple terms, one is the white cube, the other the black cube”.

Superflex - Frieze Film, The Art Newspaper Frieze Art Fair daily editions, October 2009




Frieze Film takes an alternative approach this year, focusing on one collective rather than screenings from a selection of artists. Curator Neville Wakefield has commissioned Danish artist activist group Superflex to produce a project, titled Frieze Film 2009, shown for the duration of the fair and on Channel 4, 12-15 October, 7.55pm.
Superflex focuses on sociopolitical issues through films, installations and interventions. Recent pieces include this year’s film Flooded McDonald’s, shown at the South London Gallery (16 January-1 March 2009), which saw the collective recreate one of the fast food retailer’s branches and slowly fill the building with water while it was eerily devoid of staff and customers. In 2008 the group was invited to present work at the New Orleans biennial Prospect.1, and chose to exhibit a single photograph, When the Levees Broke We Bought Our House. Priced at $20,000, the cost of the work was devised as the amount a Danish couple would have saved on the purchase of a property post Hurricane Katrina, when European banks lowered interest rates in anticipation of a related economic downturn. The funds raised through the sale of the work were then used to purchase building materials, which were distributed throughout one of the hardest hit areas of New Orleans, the Lower 9th Ward Village.
Superflex has looked to the economic crisis as the starting point for the Frieze commission. Rather than focus on the current situation from a “facts and figures perspective”, as collective founder Rasmus Nielsen describes it, the work examines the crisis as a psychological issue. “The film deals with the financial crisis as psychosis,” says Nielsen. “Naturally there is a fear level related to the crisis and we are dealing with that part of it. The film looks to walk you through your deepest fears related to this issue and then produces a short revelation at the end.”
The film, screened as one piece at the fair, is divided into four three-minute shorts for Channel 4’s “3 Minute Wonder” series. Working with a hypnosis practitioner, the collective scripted a series of sessions that place the viewer under hypnosis, taking them through scenarios relating to the crisis and, ideally, relieving them of their fears. The idea is that once under the low-level hypnosis of the film, the viewer will deal with negative feelings around issues such as losing a job or pension, or anxiety about the economy in general. Towards the end of the four sessions, the hope is that these fears will dissipate and the viewer will approach the crisis from a more relaxed perspective. “We are trying to get the viewer to the point where they understand the financial situation as partly a psychological phenomenon, and we then try and treat it with known psychological tools,” says Nielsen. “There is a humble hope that this way of thinking could lead to a more complex understanding of these sorts of crises. These events are not just about facts and figures, but also very much about emotion and social construction.”

Saturday, 19 September 2009

Dior - Kris Van Assche, Dazed & Confused, October 2009




Kris Van Assche has been firmly yet respectfully evolving the super skinny Dior Homme silhouette, left behind by his predecessor Hedi Slimane, since his debut collection for the label two years ago.
Autumn/Winter 09 sees Van Assche’s direction of shape, texture and importantly, volume, “Autumn/Winter 09 is all about the volume”, eloquently cemented.
Tailored yet loose fitting ‘just’ oversized elements can be seen throughout trousers, shirts and jackets with high collars, pleating, beading, print and beautifully elaborate cuts all visible, providing a dramatic yet softer and altogether more playful look than Slimane’s Dior.
Taking reference from Malcolm McLaren’s 90s house track Deep in Vogue, based around the New York voguing scene, Van Assche has created something that is simultaneously classic and fun, just when we need it. “The Deep in Vogue music video was about young culture and a new take on fashion, it was about letting go and that really inspired me” he explains, “when the financial crisis struck it seemed more important than ever to place this idea of fun, to contrast against the social mood and inject something lighthearted.”
The collections theatrics and confidently laid back mood led the designer swiftly to one of his favourite places in the world, Buenos Aires, for this exclusive Dazed shoot, finding his inspiration, backdrop and models in the Argentinean city. “I have always had a love affair with Buenos Aires. A lot of the models I work with are cast from there,” he says, “I love the way people look at you straight in the eye on the street. They are proud of how they look and I wanted to convey that attitude”.
The resulting photographs sum up Van Assche’s new take on Dior Homme perfectly; confident, masculine, chic and refined while at the same time being relaxed, playful and just that little bit cheeky.
What was once a new direction for the French label now looks firmly set, and while it may be a definite push forwards, Van Assche is not looking to eradicate what has gone before. “Dior can easily be reduced to a skinny black suit. It has now become the heritage of Dior and was originally a huge statement within fashion. Ultimately though designing is about evolution and I feel now it is not so modern to be restricted by the clothes you wear. Today modernity is relaxed yet defined,” divulges the designer in his warm Belgian accent.
“The most recent show for Dior was a real turning point for me, in the way I evolved certain elements of the label’s heritage. It was well received and I feel I have found my spot and am on track to finding a new vocabulary for Dior, in a very respectful way. It is not about going against the heritage of the label but about working with it, to establish a new direction”.

Jon-Jo Jury, Eastvillageboys.com, September 2009


View article at East Village Boys


The boyish, blonde, handsome and ever-so-slightly cheeky Jonjo Jury is one of the friendliest DJs you are ever likely to meet. A regular at clubs like Trash, Durrr and Fabric, as well as smaller more intimate parties in London’s east end, the infamous George & Dragon and the Dalston Superstore for instance, he has been playing an eclectic mix of music to a discerning crowd for a few years now.
Running his own parties in various venues across London, there is one thing that they always have in common, an inherent sense of fun; and they always end with an inherent sense of debauchery.
As we are bringing him over to New York for our next EVB.com party we thought it would be a good opportunity to have a chat (over a very nice bottle of red wine, thank you Jonjo) and introduce him to you.

EVB: So you have been around in London for quite a while. When did you first move here?

JJ: I’m actually a local central London boy. I was born in Barts Hospital, my mum and my Nan still live in Angel. I’m a lucky, lucky boy. I went to Islington Green School in Angel, right in the heart of North London. It was pretty cool, a pretty exciting place to grow up. From an early age I would go and walk round the British Museum just be staring up at these amazing things, and having great places to just be hanging out and also having the clubbing scene as soon as you can even manage to get into clubs and all the shops. Yeah, just having it all on your doorstep at that age is pretty amazing really.

EVB: When you were growing up did you get out of London at all or were you pretty much here all the time?

JJ: Well holidays to Torremelinos with my grandparents but not other parts of the UK. My boyfriend and I have been together for ten years, he’s from Leeds, and it has taken me that long for me to chill out when we go up there, and to the countryside. I’m getting more into it now, but it used to scare me so much. In the countryside at night time I’d be like ‘are you kidding me?’ I’d expect people to come out of their houses with burning sticks.

EVB: So where are your family from originally as you’re really blonde?

JJ: My Nan’s side is Italian, they all came over in the fifties and my grand dad is adopted but we think he is an Austrian Jew. My Dad’s side is Welsh Irish, hence Jonjo. My Granddad had shockingly silver white hair until the day he died so I guess that’s where the blonde comes from. If I have hair like his when I am old I’ll be a happy man.

EVB: So how did the DJing start? I guess being around on the nightclub scene in London from that young it’s bound to happen.

JJ: I have always been interested in music; my Mum and my Stepdad are really into music. It was quite odd to ever have silence in the house; even now I find it hard not to have something on all the time. My Stepdad was really into punk and my Mum was an early eighties soul girl.
I was managing the Super Lovers store in Covent Garden (RIP) for a while when I was about 19 or 20. I had a pretty good wage coming in but I used to just spunk all my money on CDs. The Super Lovers shop was in Covent Garden and we had so many good record shops just around the corner. People were always saying I had a really eclectic music taste and then a friend of mine Richard told me he was opening a new pub, the George & Dragon in Shoreditch, and asked me to come and DJ. I told him I wasn’t a DJ and he said that was half the point.
It was amazing actually; we ended up doing a Sunday night there when at that time there really wasn’t anywhere else doing that. One summer in 2001 it all just kicked off, everyone was going there and we had people dancing on tables, doing pills and coke off the table and stuff. Ha, anyway it all started there, I ended up doing the guest list and picking at Trash, which I hated actually, and eventually started playing at the club, just a couple of gigs at first, then more regularly.

EVB: Why do you hate doing the door?

JJ: I just think it’s mortifying. Picking someone because they have the right look to come into a bar. It’s changed now a lot though, you can just go into TopShop now and buy a look, so there aren’t really any tribes in that sense I guess anymore. At the time clubs wanted a certain type of person in I guess. It’s good for business to have good-looking people in your club ultimately.

EVB: OK, so what sort of thing were you playing back then?

JJ: Loads of stuff, it was always really eclectic. I would play an old Stooges track with some old disco, maybe an electro track and then something current, maybe some electroclash. I wasn’t really that technical and I guess it never really occurred to me to do things that way.

EVB: And what happened to Trash?

JJ: Well as we went on Erol decided he had been running it for long enough, ten years without ever missing a week, and he decided to bow out and we turned it into Durrr.
That club had more of a band theme, we had a lot of really great acts come out of that. We had Metronomy’s first gig, la Roux, We Have Band, Friendly Fires, These New Puritans, The Klaxons. And now I’m DJing pretty much full time. It’s great actually, I lose track of where I have been this year, and it has been great.

EVB: So what sort of stuff were you into as a kid?

JJ: I was really into Stock Aitken Waterman. The first single I bought was Sonia, much to my family’s embarrassment. My Stepdad says that I had a major thing for Toni Basil. When she would come on and play Hey Mickey I would literally try and climb inside the TV. I must have been about three or four then, and obviously Madonna. Ha, I came out quite early, at 13, you’d never guess would you?

EVB: OK, so really young then?

JJ: Yeah I guess I have always just known. My mum still has pictures I drew when I was younger of friends of mine with love hearts round them and stuff, so she had always known.

EVB: So were you out at school.

JJ: I never really had much hassle actually as I was kind of friends with all the different groups of people and always had been.
I guess it was actually more of a big thing when I started getting into Nirvana and Courtney Love. I had been hanging out with quite a lot of the North London boys who are white working class boys, all Reebok’s and Polo Ralph Lauren, so when I got into indie more than get called a poof, I got called a hippy.

EVB: Right so what are you doing with yourself at the moment?

JJ: I am now doing my own gigs at places like Fabric and Matter and promoting my party Hot Boy Dancing Spot.
I was always kind of the gay DJ at Durrr and Trash. I would see this group of young gay kids who were around and it was really nice to play some really great music and have those kids about. I wanted to continue that somewhere. Hot Boy Dancing Spot is just really about having a gay club that caters for all the normal young gay kids that want to go out and listen to good music.
The club has really taken off though, I was recently asked to do a party for Elmgreen and Dragset at the Victoria Miro gallery as part of a concept piece. Then we also flew over to Venice for the Biennale and played their closing party.
That was definitely the moment of my year actually so far. The party was at the old airport with us DJing on the runway for 2000 people. They even had a speedboat shuttle service jetting across the water and picking people up.

EVB: OK so what have you got coming up?

JJ: Well I’m going over to Milan next month to do a party and then obviously New York to play at the EVB.com party, and also at a party at Artists Space.
But yeah, I am really looking forward to it actually, especially as I just found out the EVB.com party has go-go boys.

EVB: Yeah, what’s that about? Why don’t we have go-go boys here in London?

JJ: Yeah I know. It’s strange. I think that for some reason NY does it and it works but here it just wouldn’t. The boys are just really hot for some reason when they’re doing it over there. I don’t know if the bars are just really shameless and they ask straight boys to do it? The thing here is, if anyone does it they are doing it as a performance, they’re really exhibitionist with it. It just doesn’t work. They had something at the Dalston Superstore recently, a competition, and some of them were brilliant, but in New York they are just these big, thick set guy’s, with a kind of ‘What? You wanna see it?’ expression on their faces. Hot. Anyway… I’m really looking forward to seeing what Richard and Weston have got up their sleeve.

Wednesday, 12 August 2009

Blank Canvas by Cedric Christie, Dazed Digital, July '09


View article at Dazed Digital

Inspired by an act of Parisian film director Jean Luc Godard’s benevolence, artist Cedric Christie has pulled together some of London’s most established creative luminaries for his charitable project Blank Canvas.
Director Godard, as part of the volunteer group Children of Don Quixote, recently donated a large amount of tents to Paris’s homeless community, which were set up all along the city’s Canal Saint Martin. The gift’s resulting shantytown caused such a wave through Europe’s press that the issue of homelessness was raised to a number one priority on France’s political agenda, during the run up to the presidential election.
Reading about the Canal and its pop-up village in a French newspaper, Christie was intrigued by the fact that one small act could make such a difference. “I read about Godard and I remember just being blown away by that gesture, by how you could do one thing and change so many peoples opinion,” he says.
Taking that as his starting point, the artist got in touch with as many of his friends and acquaintances as possible, sent them all a two man tent and asked them to customise it in a way that highlighted the homeless situation. The results, from the likes of Rachel Whiteread, Sarah Lucas, Gavin Turk, Peter Blake, Cedric himself and Vivienne Westwood, are being exhibited at this years Big Chill festival and later auctioned off with all proceeds going to homeless charities.
“I started to get in touch with people about the project and the reaction I got was amazing. Everyone has been absolutely involved, they have really taken the tent on and made it into their own work,” Christie explains.
Each of the artist's tents has become not only a representation of their take on the cause in mind, but also very much of the way that they themselves work. “Sarah Lucas has entirely burnt her tent out and scrawled on some of the remains ‘Tent is a Four Letter Word’. She hasn’t seen this project as a separate thing; she has seen it as an extension of her process. They all have, everyone involved has really made the tent into their own artwork."
While The Big Chill has always had a reputation for having a definite artistic focus, this year they have really pushed that agenda. Alongside the Blank Canvas artists London’s Art Car Boot Fair will be in attendance, featuring pieces from Gavin Turk, Stuart Semple and Tracey Emin. The festival’s arts curator Alice Sharp has also pulled in renowned sculptor Henry Krokatsis to build a large-scale site-specific installation and Dazed’s own Rankin will be on site shooting for his Rankin Live project.
“I’m not great on festivals but The Big Chill has always looked at its art as an actual element of the festival, as opposed to something satellite,” Christie explains. “They have always wanted the art that they show to have some real weight to it and not just be an add on. For me, and for Blank Canvas, that just made it the perfect place to put this project together."

Friday, 17 April 2009

Eastvillageboys.com, Attitude Magazine, April '09



Eastvillageboys.com is an Internet oasis. A logical online progression following the niche underground gay ‘zines like Butt, Kink and Dik have carved. The site takes an appreciation of hot boys - very hot, natural, un-preened, interesting boys - and adds to it a healthy amount of new and emerging talent. Sharp yet not precocious, in-depth and funny interviews with artists, musicians, and the odd truck driver frame pin up style photo shoots, creating an alternative to the muscled, oiled jocks we have come to expect from State side gay culture.
“In America the mainstream image of gay guys is pumped-up, narcissistic and unadventurous and we wanted to provide an alternative to that,” explains Richard Welch, one half of the sites founders alongside designer Weston Bingham.
“Gay culture had become so homogenised, safe and non-representative of a younger generation,” says Richard “really it’s about providing something for these kids that don’t necessarily call themselves gay. They are who they are and what they do first, their sexuality second”.
Meeting at New York’s infamous gay club The Cock, the pair cemented their friendship over clandestine Sunday morning Bloody Mary’s in the East Village’s Tompkins Square Park. Discovering a mutual dislike for the way the gay community was represented the duo decided they wanted to do something to change it. “A lot of kids now just aren’t bothered by their sexuality, they have gay friends, straight friends, they aren’t obsessed with body image and they don’t use terms like top or bottom. They don’t even know what that means. It is that unrepresented generation we’re interested in,” says Weston.
While EVB is in a way inherently gay, two gay guys run it and it features photographs of hot, semi naked guys; it is also, in itself, not constrained by sexuality. “All of the artists are gay, some of the photographers are gay, with the models some are, some aren’t, some we don’t know and the music we don’t really care” explains Weston. “The name of the site came from the way the culture was in the East Village back in the 70s” interjects Richard, “The place wasn’t about muscle queens or even gender politics, it was a creative centre that just so happened to have a lot of gay men running the show. It’s not like that now, most of our artists or photographers don’t even come from the East Village, but they embrace the spirit of how it used to be”.
Surprisingly all of the models featured have been personal submissions. A wannabe ‘boy of the week’ will send in photographs and Richard and Weston put them together with photographers they feel will work. “We don’t cast for models, we don’t have cards that we give out when we see someone we would like to feature. They make the choice to do it, and even during the shoot it’s entirely up to them and the photographer how far they go. Saying that, sometimes I wish we did have cards, there is a guy that gets on my train every morning and I would love to have a casting card to give him” says Richard with a wry smile.
“We know what drives traffic to the site,” explains Weston, “we get a lot of hits when we’re linked from places like D-List, and that’s going to be from one of the boys because that’s how those sites work, but we offer a bit more than that”, he continues “It’s not a jack off site. Personally if I was looking for porn on the net I would want hundreds of photos, stills from porn films, the works; not three artfully shot pictures of guys in their underwear”.
“I guess in that sense they come for the cock and stay for the culture,” adds Richard laughing.
He may be joking, but it’s a perfect analogy for a perfectly rounded site. Art, music, interesting interviews and boys in their pants. What more could you want from the Internet?

Thursday, 19 March 2009

Norman Rosenthal and Matthew Stone in conversation, AnotherMan, Spring/Summer 09





Walking into Sir Norman Rosenthal’s apartment is like entering a secret museum dedicated to the last few decades of London’s ever evolving art scene. Paintings that he casually attributes to ‘old friends’ turn out to be the work of household names and almost all flat surfaces are covered in piles of exhibition books and catalogues. Most are taken from shows that have defined London’s contemporary cultural history, many of which Sir Norman has curated himself.
Surrounded by the remnants of lunch, Norman Rosenthal is joined at his dinner table by Matthew Stone, who it could be said has himself helped define London’s most recent cultural history.
One of the founding members of the now infamous !WOWOW! art collective, Matthew has gone on to establish himself as a brilliant young artist, combining romanticism and baroque in his beautifully orchestrated photography and performances. An incredibly intellectually acute young man, he runs numerous platforms for high profile artistic discussions, is a regular speaker at the cities various cultural lectures and, along with his eclectic style and grandiose head of hair, a long-term fixture on London’s club scene.
While there may be a considerable age gap between the two of them, and their social worlds are, well, worlds apart - Matthew is known for his love of squatting while Norman has recently given up his position as Head of Exhibitions at The Royal Academy of Art - the first thing you notice about the pair is how comfortable they are in each other’s company.
While listening to them talk, about everything from Joseph Beuys to Matthew’s own ‘Multidox Theory’; you realise that these two are both friends and contemporaries, however far their worlds are apart.

Norman Rosenthal - I remember when I first met you Matthew. I was by far the oldest man in the room at the famous London nightclub for beautiful boys and girls, Antisocial. I had been taken there by my friend Arman Nafeei, who was working with me at the time on the Baselitz exhibition at The Royal Academy. I saw this striking young man walk past me with hair reaching towards the heavens, as luck would have it you came and sat down next to me, I think you may even have recognised me, and we started talking.

Matthew Stone – (laughs) I always recognise my friends, even when we have not yet met! You know I don’t think there has ever been anything published about me where my hair has not been mentioned; we got it in early this time. I think that’s significant; my hair is the source of all my powers…

NR - (laughs) Anyway, we were in the middle of this club and it was very noisy and very hard to have a conversation but we started talking about Joseph Beuys and our mutual love of his work and ideas. Nightclubs may be terrible places to talk but they are good places to meet people and after a few months we became great friends. We have spoken a lot about Beuys since then, amongst many other things, do you think he has a message today as an artist?

MS- I think he does. I feel it is only now that we are seeing the products of a lot of his ideas, structures changing within society and institutions for instance. This is something I think Beuys would have been very interested in.

NR - Are they really doing that? I can’t pretend I feel that myself.

MS -Well it’s still the beginning of these changes but I think there is currently a definite conversation regarding the decentralisation of institutions.

NR - Do you mean to democratise?

MS - No to decentralise; to remove the power from one central point and operate on a more departmental level. I feel this is something happening within new media companies and business surrounding the web for example. Beuys talked about moving from a competitive to a compassionate economy, and right now could not be more of a relevant time for this idea. We may not have a compassionate economy yet but there is now a dialogue relating to it.

NR – It’s rather wonderful actually to think of Joseph Beuys living in the age of Google, Youtube and the Internet. How do you think he would have reacted to these tools?

MS –I think he would use them, but there might be some resistance.

NR - Why do you think he would resist?

MS - I think there was definitely a part of his personality that was as concerned with ancient ideas as with creating visions of the future.

NR - That is something I feel very strongly about. I feel that the past should not be forgotten and that it can inform the present, and to me the present is too much a time of new forms of mass communication. How, given this world of mass communication, do you communicate? It is famous, in London at least, that when you did a performance at the Tate 4000 people turned up, which is quite amazing. I have heard you talk about a ‘sense of community and scene’. Can you elaborate on that?

MS – With these new forms of communication, communities and human networks have become tangible and commercialised like with kids using Myspace. My communities are wide ranging, and I do use these forms of communication as tools, but I've always traveled between different worlds and circles.

NR - Me too by the way, that’s maybe why we are friends. We both have a variety of different worlds, or lives if you like, that we enjoy.

MS – Yes! The idea of a bohemian, artistic, community always having been one of mine. I used to dream about squatting when I was a child and I have pretty much always dreamt of the spaces we are going to live in before we actually find them.
Starting the !WOWOW! squat in Peckham was a clear idea that began in my childhood, to be part of a group of creative, dynamic people. Its funny, but it was really important to me that I could create that reality.
I think this idea of the scene, as an autonomous, abstract, truly collective, social sculpture in the Beuysian sense, is a really interesting thing and I think that there has been a recent push to integrate event based programming into galleries and to artificially facilitate creative scenes. Nought to Sixty at the ICA and the GSK Contemporary at the Royal Academy for example.

NR – In London there has been the YBA generation, the Damien Hirst generation and you are obviously of the next generation. You are fifteen years younger than those kids, who are no longer kids; they are now middle aged. Do you think that there is a new generation of artists in London that have the possibility to do something as effective as the YBAs?

MS – It can be damaging to try to define these types of situation too early, as definitions limit the understanding that people can find in the work. One part of the effectiveness of the YBA’s work was the immediacy of it all. It might not be quite like that this time around so I don't know if it is useful to judge any effectiveness in exactly the same terms. I do feel like there is a feeling of creative optimism in London at the moment, but really it only takes a handful of people to get the ball rolling.

NR – Yes, there are obvious examples of that that can be seen in art history, with Kandinsky and the other artists of the Blue Rider, Kirchner and the three or four artist friends that surrounded German expressionism or the Bauhaus for example. It is often actually a relatively small group of people who are producing the really important work, especially at the beginning.

MS – There are things happening now which are very interesting. Currently there seems to be a spirit that art need not always stand outside of itself, or question its own nature to be relevant. I think two emerging reactionary trends will see a radical traditionalism sitting alongside a new radicalism. Both of these might result in work that requires a longer engagement from the viewer, I think that differs from the YBAs as perhaps on one level they were Pop artists.

NR - You seemed to be implying, by saying Damien and his generation were Pop artist’s, that you are something other. What is that other?

MS – I think being part of popular culture is different to making art that reflects on the mechanisms of pop art, which the YBA's did. I feel a deep responsibility to create propaganda for ideas that I think are unusual and useful in some way. This is different to work that reflects upon the nature of propaganda.

NR - You spend some of your time DJing, which is very much a part of popular culture. How do you engage with popular culture as distinct from what is conceived of as higher forms of culture?

MS - Everyone is a DJ these days, it pays for my studio! DJing is not my main interest as a visual artist, but it is part of my interest in popular culture.
I don’t really draw a distinction though, for me every action is creative regardless of context, but I do need to have freedom within my work to promote sincere statements. I have seen many of my friends take on levels of compromise to further their artistic vision, but that is something I feel I do not want to do. If I'm free to represent my own interests and ideals I can happily be involved but lots of popular culture relies on promoting specific brands or corporate identities and I try to avoid this.
I don’t want to sit here and say that I just DJ to make money, and that I see art as pure, because I know there are levels of compromise in my work but ultimately I do want to try and keep the main focus of my artwork as close as to where I started.

NR – I wanted to pull you back to two things; first of all the idea of orchestration and how much control you execute over the ‘scene’, and then how much of a pre conceived idea you had of what you wanted the squat in Peckham to become?

MS – I think that in all situations it has to be a balance of both; having an idea of where you want something to go and then using your control to guide it there.

NR - I agree with you entirely, and then you go with the flow because you never quite know what you are going to find. I am a great believer in just finding things or people, rather than looking.

MS – But your eyes must be open!

NR – Yes, your eyes have to be open. You walk in the street and you never quite know who or what you are going to find round the next corner and that is why you don’t go out looking, you go out in a vague haze.

MS – But you need to ‘leave the house’.

NR – (laughs) I am not sure about all these metaphors but yes, you need to ‘leave the house’ or ‘pick up the book’ or whatever it is, but searching for something is not a good idea if you ask me. I am also a huge believer in fate.

MS - For me fate is a very limited and traditional view of optimism, this idea that everything will work out or the world is inherently a good place. Psychologically it has been proven to be a useful mental position, but that’s not enough for me.

NR - Ok so that brings me back to the essence of your philosophy. How would you essentially define your philosophy of Optimism?

MS - I have to be conscious of many things when I am describing this here, as there are many valid reasons that people in recent history have avoided this term ‘Optimism’. We stand in the shadow of a vast century…

NR - In which, if I may say so, the two historically decisive ideologies, i.e. communism and fascism, if you were one of those to be included, were in fact promoters of a certain kind of crude optimism.

MS - I saw an interesting cartoon recently that showed Mao in front of thousands of Chinese people with a speech bubble reading “Yes we can”. I think we have to be mindful of blind optimism.

NR - So what’s the difference between blind optimism and Optimism?

MS – Blind optimism ignores the reality of suffering and is passive to reality. Without a place in culture for new visions of the future we are just left with nihilism and apathy. Optimism must be more than a naïve faith that the future will be OK; actually I’m going to quote myself here “Optimism is the vital force that entangles itself with, and then shapes through action, the future.”

NR - Considering we are such good friends I have seen a few of your exhibitions but I haven’t ever managed to witness one of your performances. From what I have seen though, you appear to be interested in interaction and the warmth between humans. Can you describe your own work a little bit?

MS - It’s about interconnection and optimistic visions of social interaction. I really believe that the whole is worth more than the sum of its parts.

NR - What does the whole consist of?

MS - The whole consists of everybody and everything and takes in the vast interconnected nature of the universe. For example, when I am making an image, I want you to see a group that is confusing with regard to who's who. Where does one person start and the next begin? I perceive that we do not finish at the end of our fingertips.

NR - What do you mean by that?

MS – I mean that the effect we have as individuals on the world has a far greater reach than that of our physical bodies. I have been developing sculptures recently that consist of intersecting solid cubes covered with images of bodies. These cubes, as they interlock, share an invisible space beneath their surfaces, like a Venn diagram. I am really interested in the way two separate ideas can at the same time be completely opposite, but that there can also be an acknowledgment of a shared space.
The cube sculptures illustrate a commonality between objects that are seen as distinct and are symbols for a way of thinking that maintains simultaneously oppositional stances. All at once! (laughs)
I have been toying with the invented term “Multidox Theory”, which is basically a paradox, but with the potential for more than two aspects. I think the future lies in the idea that you can effectively hold two opposing opinions at the same time.

NR - That is why I have always loved opera, because you can hear two or sometimes many more people, with different thoughts, singing simultaneously. I love the contrariness of it.

MS – That’s beautiful. That is, in a way, a beautiful description of the way that I approach and understand my work.

MF Husain, Dazed & Confused, April 09



M.F Husain is well on his way to being titled the most important contemporary Indian artist alive today. Since the 1940s his paintings have helped forge a new understanding of art within India, creating a dialogue on an Indian Avant-garde. Exhibiting high profile shows continuously at major international institutes throughout his career, the ever-prolific Husain recently contributed to the Serpentine Gallery’s Indian Highway group show. This included his Rape of India, painted on the 27 November 2008 while various terrorist sieges on Mumbai were still underway.
“In the 16th century Titian painted ‘The Rape of Europa, a Greek mythology where a large bull rapes a women. Titian painted that image to express certain things in a time when society was very restrictive, and I wanted to comment on that today,” explains the artist. “Rape is the worst thing you can do to a person, worse even than killing a person. The women may live, but she must carry what has happened with her for the rest of her life. My work features a two-headed bull raping a woman who is not from Delhi or from Calcutta but from Mumbai. I think when you want to express such things as this event, you have to be very stark”.
The Rape of India is not the first painting by Mr. Husain that has made reference to India’s political situation, causing contention. The artist’s previous depictions of Hindu God’s in the nude, for example, have resulted in various attacks on his house and vandalism of his exhibitions.
Watching him sit with his elegant poise, dressed in a combination of Indian and English gentlemen’s attire, sipping tea while eating hobnobs, it is hard to imagine Mr. Husain could create such controversy. From talking to him it is clear that while controversy may not be his main intention, he does have an understanding of what his work is saying. “Artists are not political leaders and we are not aiming for reform, we just make work for it to be seen. An artist’s work is purely visual and it is his visual language. Let the people who call themselves academics or critics read into it, and then they can take that to the public” he states.
Husain’s extremist critics say that his work shows a dislike for the country’s history and culture, but in reality it is the complete opposite. “India is my passion, I love the country and its many cultures. People who traveled to India throughout history have not been turned away and because of that we now have a great and composite culture. A unique culture” says the artist.
It seems a fitting statement then that the artist larger contribution to Indian Highway, described by Husain as “perhaps the greatest platform of Indian contemporary art we have yet seen in the west”, was a 12-part celebration of India.
“I’d like my work to be like a footprint, I’d like to participate in Indian cultural history. In a sense Indian civilization is about celebrating and I would like my work to celebrate India. The darker side of life is of course there, but if you look outside you see bright colours. And it is that brightness that I want to leave behind” says Mr. Husain.

Circlesquare - Jeremy Shaw, Attitude Magazine, April 09




Handsome, laddish, clever, funny, relaxed yet engaging, Canadian Jeremy Shaw is both an internationally recognised artist and the driving force behind one of the most interesting bands to surface over the last twelve months.
Originally signed to the innovative Trevor Jackson’s record label Output back in 1999, Jeremy’s band Circlesquare has had a quiet couple of years since Jackson’s label folded in 2006. Recently signing to K7 they are now well and truly back, with a new album and live show, which they are very pleased about.
“I’m super happy with the album. For me it seemed like a logical progression, actually don’t write that ha, people will just think of LTJ Bukem. It was though, it was the next step, we had been playing so many live shows that it seemed the right thing to do to try and capture that” explains Jeremy. “I lived in Vancouver for two years when Output died and there wasn’t really much to keep me in touch with the rest of the world. I was working on my art but also writing music all the time, so when I moved to Berlin last year and we started playing gig’s again I had this backlog of songs to get out and it’s great that we can do that now”.
Directly titled ‘Songs about Dancing and Drugs’, the album’s name seems to pretty clearly categorise it. Rather than being the next LCD Soundsystem though, Circlesquare have a lot of darker musical influences and owe as much to Leonard Cohen as they do to Underworld. “Leonard was a definite influence on this record lyrically, I think he is the master of double entendre.” “There are so many eclectic sounds that I feel have had an impact on ‘Songs about...’ from Drum and Bass and Minimal Techno through to David Bowie. Even 80s Goth band Bauhaus’ experimental offshoot Tones on Tail” says Shaw.
While Songs about Dancing and Drugs does have, as Shaw puts it, “a druggy sound”, it is reminiscent of a blunted Morphine trip rather than a big night out on E’s. “It’s more David Lynch than Daft Punk. It’s dark and surreal with an unsettling reality” he explains.
Drugs seem to have had a big impact on Shaw’s work over the years, both in his music and in his artwork. One of his most well known art pieces, made while he was still living in Vancouver, consisted of a series of films detailing peoples experience taking the intense hallucinogenic D.M.T. “I was into drugs as a kid but was always kind of let down by them. I did acid but never saw pink elephants and ecstasy just seemed a bit too easy. D.M.T was supposed to be the trip to end all trips and I really wanted to document that”. “It only lasts ten minutes and you slip in and out of it pretty much instantaneously. I wanted to record people explaining their experience but it turned out its so strong it almost defies vocabulary,” says Shaw.
After stints back and forth between Canada and London, like a large proportion of the current creative populace Jeremy has settled in Berlin, with his boyfriend, as he finds it easier to survive financially and keep working creatively. “I love London but it’s just so fucking expensive. Berlin allows you the freedom to do what you want to do and get by”. “The art scene and the gay scene are really mixed in together over there as well and I like that. The gay scene in general is less self-conscious; there isn’t really the thing for pretty young boys or the twink thing. It seems less commercial and very progressive. Outcasts of all sorts have always historically gone to Berlin, it’s a really accepting city,” he explains.
While Berlin might swing it for Jeremy creatively, London still has one big draw. “The boys in London though, the boys are definitely hotter. Berlin guys are great, but there is a definite lack in red heads. You just don’t get ginger boys in Germany”.

The album Songs about Dancing and Drugs and the single Dancers are both available now. The new single Hey You Guys, with remixes by Juan Mc Lean and Mickey Moonlight is available from 17 April, all on K7 Records.

Wednesday, 4 March 2009

Anita Zabludowicz, The Art Newspaper New York edition, 4 March 2009



Collector, philanthropist and driving force behind London’s 176 exhibitions space in a former Methodist chapel, Anita Zabludowicz is visiting New York to exhibit photographic works from her collection and, she says, to search out new and emerging talent. Works by Wolfgang Tillmans, Thomas Struth, Gregory Crewdson and Stephen Shore will be on view at a cocktail reception being held at the New York offices of the Zabludowicz collection as part of the Armory Show VIP calendar. Zabludowicz, the wife of investment and real estate millionaire Poju Zabludowicz, is joining the ranks of major collectors including Ellen and Jerome Stern and Ronald Lauder who are also giving access to their homes or exhibition spaces.
While she may be in the city during the Armory week, Zabludowicz is as focused on the city’s commercial gallery shows as she is on the fair itself. “It is a really good quality fair, a bit like a smaller more accessible version of Art Basel Miami Beach, but what is so important is that The Armory influences all the surrounding galleries in New York. Even those not showing at the fair itself create really strong, exciting exhibitions during that period,” she says.
Given the current financial climate, this year the effect The Armory Show has on the smaller galleries is perhaps more important than ever to Zabludowicz. “Due to the credit crunch we are going to be doing a bit of everything this time. We can’t focus so much on purchases so I am going to look, research and discover as well. I would like to buy lots obviously, but this year I really can’t.”
Zabludowicz says she tries not to be influenced by the press surrounding artists—“I try not to get involved in the hype”— and that it is gut instinct that leads her to choose a particular work. “I usually go for genius,” she says. “That is not easy to define but you just feel it. I want it to be something I have never seen before. Usually technically they are quite brilliant but sometimes that is at first not evident, for instance with someone like [Thomas] Hirshhorn. It could be a brilliance in the way they are thinking,” she explains.
Some of her most cutting edge artist discoveries have previously come from New York with Dash Snow, Terence Koh, Rashid Johnson and Aaron Young all a part of the Zabludowicz Collection. While her process of discovery may not be particularly pre-planned, she seems to have a knack of identifying artists who later achieve high profiles. “I like to find artists about three years after they have graduated. That way I can follow and afford them hopefully until the day I die,” she says. “At that point the art is still pure in my eyes, it is art for art’s sake. They haven’t yet been grabbed by the big collectors or made a part of the international fair circuit”.
Supporting younger artists is very much the ethos of Zabludowicz and her collection. A strong educational programme accompanies the 176 exhibition space in London’s Chalk Farm, while 176 regularly sponsors the Zoo Art Fair, a satellite of the Frieze Art Fair, which focuses on more emerging artists.
Meanwhile, Zabludowicz also told The Art Newspaper that she is planning to develop an exhibition space in Las Vegas. The plan started when Zabludowicz purchased a 10,000 sq ft installation by Keith Tyson last year, and the artist told her that it would be most appropriate to install it in the casino city. As Las Vegas is looking to extend its cultural offerings, the mayor offered the Zabludowicz collection a free plot of land to build an exhibition space to show the work. The project is temporarily on hold as a result of the economic situation.

Friday, 16 January 2009

Anthony Goicolea, Attitude, January 2009


Adolescence, identity and homogeneity are all themes that run through the body of New York based artist Anthony Goicolea’s work. His photographs, drawings and films depict narrative driven fantasy worlds that examine these ideas in beautiful dreamlike images.
Originally working with self-portraits, Goicolea expanded this in his early career casting himself as characters that play out moments from what appear to be deeper storylines. While acknowledging narcissism in this work, his self-casting was ultimately down to practicality. “I realized I wanted to include other people but didn’t want to deal with them bringing their own ideas to the narrative,” Goicolea explains.
His photographs have a strong focus on youth, with the artist’s own characteristics informing this. “I grew up looking younger than I am and was aware of both the advantages and disadvantages this had” he says. Taking these experiences as a starting point his work progressed on to include models rather just himself, but Goicolea’s understanding of the power of youth remained.
The models Goicolea uses are boyish and beautiful yet sinister, often with an almost Aryan quality. While they are young, his grouping of them in vests and pants, lying together in dormitories for example, as seen in his piece The Septemberists, toys with underlying adolescent sexuality. There is a tense homoerotic feel to the work but rather than define himself as a gay artist Goicolea explains he is “an artist that just happens to be gay”. “Any artist is informed by his life, and in the same way that moving to the mountains meant I became more interested in landscape, being gay is something I have discussed” he says.
Anthony’s latest offering is a book titled Fictions. Continuing with the idea of creating a narrative however anonymous, Fictions is made up of a series of both photographs and drawings that combine to elaborate different aspects of a story. “When I was making the book I was interested in photography and drawing creating a language. Photography has to have a certain level of believability otherwise it falls apart whereas drawing and painting have a greater sense of suspended belief”.
Anthony Goicolea’s hugely orchestrated and dark images leave you questioning the story they are telling. Add to this his use of young, attractive, almost arrogant models and you’re left with something that absolutely has the ability to make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up.

Monday, 29 December 2008

Tacida Dean - Folkestone Triennial, Another Magazine



The quaint port town of Folkestone, perhaps best known for its ferry terminus, is a somewhat improbable new star on the international art map. It is currently holding its inaugural triennial; with an artists brief to produce a personal reaction to the Kent town. Tacita Dean’s 16mm film for the event, Amadeus (swell consopio), proved a difficult process for the Turner-nominated artist, who was brought up in a village ten miles from the site.
Dean left the area to study at Falmoutrh College of Art early in her career, eventually moving to Berlin in 2000 where she is still a resident. “Everything about it reminds me of my childhood; the streets, the people, even the library where the film is being shown. I can’t explain how complex that is,” she says. “It has been a really interesting process for me to realise how much coming from a place can trip you up when you are making a work”.
Departing from the idea of making work about the land itself – the most common theme for other artists exhibiting at the Triennial, including Ayse Erksman, Christian Boltanski and Jeremy Deller – Dean explains, “In the end it got so hard that I had to make it strange for myself, so I looked to the sea. Folkestone’s history is all about its relationship to France and the water in between – the Martello Towers, The Royal Military Canal, the acoustic mirrors and Channel Tunnel rail link. For centuries we have been barricading ourselves in or trying to reach across. We are an island people who have become too content with looking in and have let our seaport citadels rot.”
Shot from the bow of a small fishing boat making the crossing from Boulogne to Folkestone, the 50-minute film (the length the journey between the ports should be – in fact, due to bad weather, the journey took five long hours) contrasts the often-tumultuous seas with the calm beauty of the changing light throughout the journey.
The harsh physical effects on both Tacita and the crew inadvertently became an underlying narrative. . “Afterwards it seemed to make sense; I had moved away to mainland Europe and in the end I had to make myself physically sick in order to get home”.

Walter Pfeiffer, Attitude


Boyish, cheeky, athletic and semi-clothed sums up the majority of Swiss photographer Walter Pfeiffer’s images. Beautiful young men caught in innocent yet sexually charged poses, sit, stand, lie and generally lead you astray in his colourful, candid portraiture.
Piercing the connotations of the genre with which it could lazily be associated, this is not male physique photography. While Pfeiffer’s interest in young men is clear there is an honest naivety about his pictures that projects his work, placing it in the ranks of Larry Clark, Nan Goldin and Terry Richardson.
Now 62 years old Pfeiffer first started taking pictures back in the early 70’s after working as a draughtsman and graphic designer. He originally starting taking pictures as an aide to his large-scale pencil drawings but was later discovered as a photographer in his own right. His aide Polaroid’s were spotted by the curator of the seminal 1974 Lucerne exhibition Transformer, and Pfeiffer was asked to contribute to the show. “The boy I shot for that first exhibition was very beautiful,” he explains, “there was something Michelangelo-esque about him that made me want to make the pictures”.
Since then Walter has continued to chase beauty, mainly in men, throughout his work, and it’s a self declared obsession that keeps him hunting. “It’s a kind of desire I can never reach, a sort of yearning that does not leave. It is definitely an obsession, maybe it will go away when I get older but I’m old enough and it’s still here with me now” says Pfeiffer.
Although working since the 70s it is only recently that Walter’s images have become widely popular. Asked to do an interview for i-D magazine in 2007 and subsequently shoot a 12-page feature he has rapidly gone on to be a favored fashion photographer. When Vanity Fair recently asked ex-Gucci head man Tom Ford to be their cover feature, Ford replied he would be happy to be involved, as long as Walter took the shots.
With his new high profile fans, and an upcoming career spanning retrospective at Switzerland’s Fotomuseum Winterhur, Pfeiffer’s success may have come later in life but he intends to make the most of it while he can. “I don’t want to be seen as an old man with the tongue hanging out” says the photographer, “I was never much interested in the ‘flesh’ anyway. For me it is about what I can do with the models in my pictures. I will keep doing this until it seems strange, even if it is just strange for myself rather than anyone else”.

Hans-Ulrich Obrist - Formulas, AnotherMan



Can one formula describe your attitude to life, or your way of working? A series of visual answers to these questions make up the “exhibition in book form” Formulas.
“I like the idea that a book can travel in a more viral way, as opposed to an exhibition being localised” says the projects curator Hans-Ulrich Obrist. “As a lot of the formulas had been emailed to me, this viral idea seemed to fit”. Contributions by over 200 high profile artists, including Gilbert & George, Damien Hirst, Douglas Gordon and Yoko Ono make up the collection.
Born out of a conversation between Obrist and scientist Albert Hofmann, the project was conceived back in 2005 during Swiss uber art fair Art Basel. Discussing Hofmann’s infamous discovery of LSD, the scientist scrawled the diagram for the formula on a paper napkin. It was this that led Hans-Ulrich to the idea that perhaps one formula could inform a full body of work. “It looked visually completely amazing and I was led to thinking how interesting it was that Hofmann’s entire life work was somehow compressed into this one formula. The moment I made this realisation it led me to question whether or not artists had a formula that could explain their work” says Obrist.
Arriving in London in 2006 to both his new job as co-director of the Serpentine Gallery, and subsequently an empty office, Obrist stuck his lone LSD formula on the wall. “When I arrived I had only the Hofmann but within a year and a half all the walls of the entire office were completely covered. As more and more people came to see me the project evolved with them answering the question ‘What is the formula to your work?”
As he has with this project, Swiss born curator and writer Hans-Ulrich has always been interested in pushing the boundaries of how art should be presented. His previous shows have included an exhibition in a kitchen and his China Power Station took over the iconic and cavernous Battersea Power building.
The physical presentation of each show is important in Obrist’s projects, but it’s the intense ideas and themes that attract his many collaborators. The 2006 Marathon project saw everyone from Jeff Koons to Brian Eno, and Geoff Dawkins to Giles Deacon being interviewed by Obrist back to back for a full 24 hours.
While Hans-Ulrich’s own ideas play a large role in his exhibitions, he prefers to see himself as a self described creative “junction maker” rather than a contributor. When asked about his relationship to the artists involved in Formulas Obrist replies “I prefer to be not in the centre of things, but in the middle of things”. An idea, perhaps, that could be a formula in itself.

Bruno Pieters - Hugo Boss, i-D



With a CV boasting Maison Martin Margiela and Christian Lacroix as former employers, and having previously set up his own line, Bruno Pieters is a designer with a strong knowledge and understanding of the industry behind him.
June 2007 saw him take art directional control of Hugo Boss’ progressively tailored imprint HUGO but next season will be Pieters’ debut collection for the label.
A return to the brand’s classic, refined and directional roots, the Autumn/Winter 08/09 collection clearly bears the stamp of both Hugo Boss and Bruno.
Taking the helm of such a high profile brand might have proved to be a daunting task but Pieters’ previous experience has allowed him to produce a sharp hitting entrance.
Inspiration for both the men and women’s lines come from art movements of the 1920’s including Realism, Surrealism and Art Deco. Luxurious fabrics both complement and react against a minimal silhouette, giving a tough almost austere edge to fine wools, silks and leather.
For men, roomy yet highly tailored trousers in varying tones of gray contrast fitted, light coloured, micro patterned shirts with elegant small collars. These subtle elements sit well against other outfits made up of heavy and oversized knits, set off with huge scarves, all in a toned down palette of midnight blue and black.
The womenswear follows a similar line of shape, volume, colour and fabric, but the addition of a 1960’s feel, contrasting the almost Germanic look, gives the strong, tough women an elegant touch.

Slava Mogutin - NYC Go-Go, Attitude



Leaving for America in the mid 90s, Slava Mogutin was the first Russian national to be granted US asylum on the grounds of homophobic persecution. Back in the home country his radical gay writing was not exactly looked on favourably.
Arriving in New York and making his name appearing in front of, and subsequently behind the camera, it is Mogutin’s photography rather than writing that made his mark internationally.
His first book Lost Boys was a combination of two bodies of work with photos taken mainly from his time in Russia. A series of pictures looking at the relationships between different guys across “disfranchised” Eastern Europe; the book relays a feeling of sensitivity and unawareness from his subjects, in what are very sexual images.
In comparison the characters from Mogutin’s latest book have a much more direct grasp on themselves and how they represent their sexuality. Shot entirely in the backrooms and bars of New York’s infamous male strip bars NYC Go-Go has a much sharper sexual side. The boys in these pictures are fully aware of how hot they are, and what it can get them.
Made with more in mind than simply photographs of hot young guys though, the photographer sees the book as a story line for the western world. “The NYC go-go hustler scene is a great metaphor for western civilization and American capitalist society in particular. Everyone is a prostitute, everyone who serves this society and buys into its corporate system” states Slava.
Looking past the instant turn on of the pictures there is something more political to them and they do stand as a document of, as the artist describes; “a hyper capitalist society, where anything or anyone can be turned into a product”. It takes a bit of thought to move past the dollar bills, jock straps and cocks in socks but as with Slava’s other work there is more to see than what is on the surface. The guys in NYC Go-Go are definitely not being taken advantage of; these are guys dancing both because they get paid but also because they have fun.
“Money is obviously a big part of this scene, you see dancers using dollar bills as props or as part of their costume, but few guys dance just for the money. For most, it’s a way to show off, be admired or simply get laid. They feel empowered by their role as sexual objects. I think it’s pretty obvious from my photos that the guys are having fun and enjoying themselves, whether they are true hustlers, gay or gay for pay” says Mogutin.
Equally hot but not as visceral are the images shot in the back rooms of the bars. Taken off the stage and often just focusing on one guy, it’s these pictures that give you a sense of their reality and let you see something more than just the theatrical persona of the performers. “I’m not a party photographer and I wasn’t interested in doing a book about nightlife, it is about the people who make this scene so exciting and unique. The portraits taken backstage capture the dancers’ real personalities, you see them unmasked — interacting with each other, jerking off to straight porn or smoking a joint. You see them being themselves”.
As well as being a group of pictures focusing on the performers NYC Go-Go is also a document of the scene itself, or what’s left of it. To Slava it is a chance to freeze a period in time that is rapidly disappearing, “New York’s gay subculture is at its lowest point now. After Mayor Giuliani’s infamous Quality of Life campaign, the city that used to be legendary for its alternative scene has been sanitized. Times Square is now one big sexless Disneyland, all the best clubs and bars have been shut down and undercover cops infiltrate all the remaining gay joints” he says.
In Russia Slava was an outcast, a self acknowledged “political dissident” and it is this that gave him his drive. “I’ve always felt like an outsider and found my inspiration in alternative, marginal and underground things. It gives me a certain perspective and angle that is quite different from any stereotypes or clichés” he explains. While NYC Go-Go is new work made in the US, it seems Slava has followed a natural progression to be drawn towards a similarly sidelined group of people as he did when he was in Russia. While he is dealing with sexuality in a much more capitalist way than when in his native country, and visually the results are quite different, it seems the politics and his thought process behind the work are the same.

Javier Peres, Attitude


Owner of Peres Projects, currently one of the most cutting edge contemporary art galleries around, Javier Peres is sharp, intelligent and very aware.
Opening up shop just a few years ago he now owns spaces in Berlin, LA and New York with some of the most influential artists working at the moment. These include Terence Koh, Dash Snow, Bruce LaBruce, Paul Lee, and Mark Titchner. An absolute passion for what he does and who he works with, combined with a great understanding of how the art world is run has propelled him forward so quickly.
His extravagant parties; occasionally involving strippers, hundreds of signed dollar bills and dirty downtown Miami bars, bring fashion, glamour and debauchery to an otherwise slow art world.
Javier Peres is definitely not only about self promotion though. He is someone with a seriously acute connection to, and understanding of, what he is doing. His gallery is more than just his work, incredibly close friendships with his artists and the people he employs mean it seems like pretty much his entire life.
On his last birthday this passion caused Javier to fly 45 of his friends from Europe and the U.S, to Mikonos and Athens for a 4 day party. This culminated in Javier being ‘baptised’, completely naked in the sea at night, by Terence Koh dressed in a full body suit made of long black human hair imported from China.
This is someone who definitely takes their work seriously.

Attitude: You started your career as a lawyer. What was it that made you move over to the art world?

Javier Peres: I wanted a change of focus in my life, practicing law stopped satisfying me. My family collected art and I grew up with some really great works around me so the move was pretty instinctual. I realised I wanted to promote certain artists and get them the recognition I felt they deserved.

A: A lot of the artists you represent have a gay theme to their work. Is that something you find interesting?

JP: Probably. It’s interesting that even a couple of the straight artists in my program reference gay issues, and that they often say they wish they were gay men.

A: Is it something you look for in your artists?

JP: I don’t look for artists who are gay; I look for artists that I think have something important to say.
There is an attention to sexuality though. I don’t know why but it is one of the factors that connect them. There is also just a certain degree of basic horniness which makes a lot of the artist’s I work with think with their dicks a lot.

A: Do you think there is a new movement of gay artists being taken seriously at the moment?

JP: Yes and no, it’s not like the Pop artists, there’s no Fag Art movement. What I see are more and more artists that address gay subject matters in a candid way.

A: You are often said to have a really close relationship with a lot of your artists. How close are you?

JP: Very close! I actually have one of their initials tattooed on my forearm. It happened on a very drunken night at a London hotel and when it was all over, I had his initials and he had mine. And the walls of the room where covered in ink from the pens we broke to make the homemade, prison style tattoos.

A: Peres Projects has become a brand in the art world. Is that what you had always intended to do?

JP: My goal was and is to develop an identity that people associate with quality and importance, when it comes to art. I am a harsh critic of my own artists, when the relationship stops working we end it because having Peres Projects associated with quality, in the art of our time, is very important to me.

A: You work really hard but there is also a definite element of fun to what you do.

JP: I have fairly acute A.D.D so I lose interest in things in a flash, but having fun is something I am always up for. I like fucking around pretty much all the time, and I certainly try to bring this to the way I run my galleries.

A: You set up your magazine Daddy last year. How did it start?

JP: I was having coffee and ranting, as I often do, about how shitty I thought certain art magazines were and how I think they are so fucking dull they aren’t even good enough to read on the toilet. By the time I had finished my triple espresso frapuccino I was convinced I would start Daddy.
I try to come up with all the content really quickly, and I usually do them late at night after I have been partying. It helps me come down and focus a bit before passing out.

A: What have you got planned for the next issue?

JP: This coming issue’s theme is the Occult, so there is a lot of weird shit, obituaries, Scientology and Tom Cruise of course.
And after that it’s red, but I’m not sure if I will call it Ginger Daddy or Red Daddy. Red is my favourite hair colour on a man, I am well known for my disposition for the reds, so Prince Harry will be very much there. I really hope he becomes your next King, he is fucking awesome

A: What are your plans for Peres Projects in the coming year?

JP: This is my serious year. I am going to represent the estate of a recently deceased artist Arsen Roje, who died almost a complete unknown. We will be doing a lot more publications but in general I am refocusing my attention on doing bigger, killer exhibitions.
And a lot more parties too. Without the parties it is hard for me to stay interested.

Terence Koh, Attitude



Standing firm favourite as the art world’s bad boy of the moment, Terence Koh is hardcore. Jesus with an erection, a film featuring German boys fucking and snorting drugs off a black vinyl covered table and photographs of Terence himself pushing a large skeletal bone up his arse are just three examples of his work.
Clearly not someone afraid of, or even seemingly that bothered by the idea of shocking the mainstream, Terence has been creating a growing amount of noise on the international art scene over the past few years. First appearing in the late nineties with his Asianpunkboy and Kohbunny characters, his work emerged in photocopied ‘zine and photographic format, made up from pictures of naked young guys combined with witty, sharp, visceral writing.
Since then his work has evolved and refined. Killing off the characters in 2003 and starting to work under his own name making strangely beautiful, almost classically romantic pieces using installation, sculpture, film and performance, Terence Koh’s rise to fame and fortune has been rapid.
Under the wing of Javier Peres, the owner of Terence’s gallery Peres Projects and partner in their joint owned New York project space Asia Song Society (ASS), a piece of Koh’s artwork, made up of glass showcases filled with gold-plated fist-sized chunks, labelled as ‘the artists own excrement’, sold in June 2007 for a rumoured $500,000. This is a far cry from when the two first met in San Francisco 2002, with Terence selling ‘cum or shit stained’ boxer shorts as art on his website and apparently ‘hustling the street to pay the rent’.
With a Berlin exhibition opening this month, LA and Frankfurt solo shows in May, an early career retrospective at contemporary art museum Musac Leon (Spain) in September, projects planned for the UK and a growing reputation for hosting the most extravagant and debauched parties since the 70’s porn boom, this is going to be another big year for Terence Koh.

Attitude - You began your career creating work under the name of two characters, Asianpunkboy and Kohbunny. Who were they?

Terence Koh - They were both me. It was the only way of me not going crazy, saying I was made of two personalities within one body.
I was confused as a child, I had a hard time defining concrete reality and I was lonely. Asianpunkboy and Kohbunny were imaginary friends, made up because I had no one to talk to. At some points I couldn't distinguish which one I was or if I was both. In the end, we were not different; we were one, one creature, two heads.

A - A few of years ago you dropped the names and starting working under your own. Why?

TK - I was finding confidence in myself, I started finding out who I was - what I wanted to do, and I didn't need imaginary friends to help me anymore. Also I found my one and only love, Garrick. He is my soul mate and confidante and I felt I could lose my two best friends Asianpunkboy and Kohbunny.

A - A lot of your work deals with sexuality or contains sexual elements, but at the same time I have read you believe “art should not be sexual”. Can you explain that?

TK - I think that sexuality is an emotion. I don't think art should be emotional. I don’t understand why sexuality has to be an emotion? It’s an impermanent feeling that is a result of very precise circumstances. I think when you perceive art that way it gives it too many limits.

A - Some of your earlier work referenced pornography and in your latest film you pretty much get fucked senseless. What is it that interests you about placing hardcore imagery in a more mainstream environment?

TK - The main reason I made that film was I thought it would be a great way to get fucked. I hadn't been fucked for two months and I was sitting in bed in Berlin and thought I needed hot German guys to doggy me, and if I could make money (through selling the end result as art) then so much the better. It’s not to provoke or shock or to challenge any notions of a mainstream civilized society, I just get really inspired when I get doggied.

A - As well as sex there also seems to be a discussion of fashion and decadence in your work. What is it about those two elements that interest you?

TK - I am interested in all the elements on the surface of society. I think this perception of decadence is mistaken for a strong individualistic need within me to experience the unknown. In the unknown I hope to find pleasure. I think pleasure is the greatest stimulus for the soul, not sadness, melancholy or anger.

A - Your performances can be incredibly hedonistic. Wearing $30,000 Balenciaga trousers and accompanied by boys spraying the crowd with Hermes perfume and amyl nitrate for example. Do you see this as a parody of the art world or do you just like the glamour?

TK - I like glamour because it’s shiny. I like glamour because it makes life much, much, easier.

A - You performed at BoomBox in London last summer, startling the crowd with intense light while a group of hairless young boys moved across the stage. What was it that made you choose that club to perform in?

TK - The club chose me. I don't do a lot of choosing myself. I reached the conclusion a few years ago that if things are chosen for you, by someone or something else, life is dramatically less stressful. BoomBox is a cool club, I am glad it chose me because I would like to be perceived as cool. Really cool.

A - Do you see the resurgence of performance art in clubs as something important?

TK - Yes. Clubs should be seen as the new art galleries. I have a feeling that in about a decade art galleries will no longer be white cubes to show art but a focal point to release energy visually, physically and sensually.

A - At the party for Javier Peres Daddy magazine in Miami, hosted by yourself at a downtown strip club, it was so over crowded that even you and Javier had trouble getting in. What is it that makes your party’s so popular?

TK - My good looks and the well known fact that my ass is open for anyone, people can smell an open hole.

A - Your light installation currently on show at Peres Projects Berlin is a remake of the piece you installed last year at the Whitney Museum in New York. What made you want to reinstall it and is it different from the original?

TK - It wasn't my idea; it was Javier's idea because he had to sell it. Javier realizes I have a lot of expenses, and so does he. Every year our need for the fruits of the bourgeoisies exceeds our means.
This time the light is brighter so that we can sell it for more. Also in this installation I did a performance in the room where I got doggied in front of the light. I think that the light is prettier now as a result.

A - You have a retrospective coming up in September, at MUSAC museum, Leon (Spain). That’s quite and achievement for an artist at this point in your career. How do you feel about your success?

TK – I feel that I failed. I'm a failure. I have a goal that I need to be more famous than Kylie Minogue. The numbers are still seriously against me.

Noir, i-D



“Duality, the idea of yin and yang; loving Edgar Allen-Poe at the same time as Madonna” is how Peter Ingwersen describes the inspiration for his ‘ethical luxury’ label Noir. “I always believed that there had to be a balance in things, I wanted to create beautiful clothes that came with political correctness” says the designer.
While ‘ethical fashion’ is the newspaper-supplement hype of the moment, a lack of luxury is something that has gone hand in hand with most green clothing labels up until now. Ethical designs are often constrained by the ‘ethical’ materials the brands have access to, but in Noir’s case a Corporate Socially Responsible (CSR) system is in place. This means the label keeps checks on the creation of all its own materials, and makes sure everyone involved gets treated, and more importantly paid, correctly. In turn this allows Ingwersen to use whatever he wants in his designs, as long as it’s made to his company’s guidelines.
Ethics were not the label’s only starting point though. “I always wanted to work with CSR, but not in the traditional Goa hippy way. I wanted to put a bit of sex back, I think that’s the only way any fashion label can make a mark. If you use fabrics so thick you can smoke them, people are never going to buy into it” the designer explains.
See-through silk, viscose and thin African cotton (all fairly and responsibly sourced, of course) combine to make up the base of the SS08 collection. While Noir’s previous output has been darker with a touch of S&M, this time it’s about “thin transparent layers placed on top of further transparent layers” says Ingwersen.
Another inspiration he quotes is strong and powerful women. Patti Smith and Joan Jet are both used by the designer to describe his labels woman, but it’s not a specific image he’s thinking of. “For me it has never been about demographic, it’s about psychographic. I like women who are running their life on their premises,” he explains “they could be fifteen year old girls or a woman of 80”.
Peter Ingwersen has managed to combine the best of both worlds with Noir; to adopt the already established rules of fashion and at the same time fairly treat the people that help create it. “Fashion is about making you attractive; it’s about making you look sexy and more interesting” he says. “I am not in the church of stopping consumerism, I want to create brands that adhere to consumerism, but also give something back”.

Norman Rosenthal Essay ; The Golden Age of Creativity - Edited, AnotherMan


Living in London now, I believe we are still living in a golden age of creativity.
At my age (63) I feel very fortunate to know a lot of young people, and even more to enjoy their friendship. While I have always been more interested in classical music, even as a child, I’m aware of nightlife and I can see creative young people today connected to nightlife in a different way than they have been previously. Damien Hirst’s generation is looked on as a very successful one, but the YBA’s regarded nightlife as only one club in Soho, the Groucho. It was a Groucho world and certainly not particularly a music world. The current creative scene feels much more connected to music, performance, dance, fashion and art, all fused as one.
I was lucky enough to be taken to Antisocial when it was still running. I persuaded my best friend Sophie Hicks, a ‘fashion’ mover and shaker in the 70’s & 80’s, to come with me. She was completely amazed with the club, with the ‘quality’ of the people there. She turned to me at one point and said “the next Alexander McQueen is in this room” - she just knew. To me that was very encouraging, that as one set of people, Damien and his friend’s generation, move into middle age, something exciting is still continuing now.
For London, the 60’s were a new beginning creatively. I was on some level involved at the start but was a periphery figure at best; I came out of the Old Master world even though I never formally studied art or art history. Towards end of the decade I began to meet people like David Hockney, then the golden boy of British Pop art. He was, and is, a great moral force on the world. I loved his attitude to cigarettes, gayness and to liberty in general. He was making marvelous paintings along with Richard Hamilton, Peter Blake, Allen Jones and that whole world of Pop art.
It was a small world though, and it got even smaller in the 70’s and 80’s. There are artists from that epoch that still stand out, Gilbert and George, Richard Long and Tony Cragg for example, but in those days there were only two galleries showing serious new art.
At that time the art world felt very provincial in London, at best a suburb of New York City. Together with two colleagues including Nick Serota, I managed to curate a show at the Royal Academy in 1981 called A New Spirit in Painting. We included artists like Baselitz, Kiefer, Polke, Schnabel and Paladino as an experiment to revive the idea of painting after Conceptualism, and did it successfully.
Looking back I think it turned out to be a huge lift, it signaled a change in London’s fortune. The exhibition attracted huge attention as well as dealers, collectors and artists from all over suddenly making this city an art capital of the world. I remember Anthony D’Offay, who had previously been a dealer in 1910/20’s Bloomsbury culture, suddenly abandoning all of that to take on artists from A New Sprit in Painting. Charles Saatchi also changed his agenda; he started buying these paintings in large quantities and exhibiting them in his gallery. I really think seeing that gave a younger generation of artists the ambition to take this new art world on at its own level.
Out of that ambition grew the YBA’s. I remember when I first met Damien Hirst in 1988 he was finishing Goldsmiths and working on the now legendary Freeze exhibition. He was a pushy guy, but with a very good feeling about him, and persuaded me to come and see his show. The exhibition was of course impressive, and on the way back I asked, “Well what else is there to see in this part of the world?” He took me to the Chisenhale Gallery, a public space in the east end before the east-end had become what it is today, to see Rachel Whiteread’s House. I had never heard of Rachel, but the piece was very impressive, and it was a typically generous gesture of Damien’s to take me there. That was what was so wonderful about them all, artists like Damien, Gary (Hume) Tracey (Emin) and many more, they were all friends. That’s why I am so excited about now; I can see it’s not dissimilar with the current young generation, but this time the net is spread wider, including fashion, performance and music, as well as art.
I hate the idea of the next big ‘one’, but I sense that there is something happening at the moment and I want to spend more time understanding it. It feels as if there is a new group of young people working along side each other, and I am interested in thinking of a way to get it across. There are artists whose names I didn’t know six months ago, I feel sure have a lot to offer. It’s still to be translated into a creative reality (the same was true of Damien at the time of Freeze), but it’s in there nonetheless. Maybe the fact that it’s not obviously marketable is actually part of its inherent worth. It is good that there is a new group of people combining their talents and working together in London, but perhaps it is a platinum age, rather than a golden one.

Dean Sameshima, Attitude


Delving into underground gay culture and history, artist Dean Sameshima takes his inspiration from vintage porn and old cruising grounds rather than Van Gogh or Picasso. Using memories from his teenage years in his degree show, Sameshima created a set of photographs recording bars, public toilets and park areas where guys went looking for sex. “I got my first car when I was 16 and used to go nightly to all the gay cruising spots. I realised when I started doing my degree show there was a lack of imagery of these places in photo history” says Sameshima. “I realised that these spots were starting to die out and get closed down and it made me think that using those places was one of the few privileges that gay men had over heterosexuals; that we could hunt 24/7 for sex”.
Looking at various areas of gay culture that were being forgotten led Sameshima to talk about aspects of life before the legalisation of homosexuality in his artwork. For his 2005 exhibition Young Men at Play he took archive images from old 40’s and 50’s physique magazines and used them to create large rainbow coloured screen prints. “Homosexual culture was so underground back then, they used physique magazines as a way of distributing what they could get away with, it was basically like gay porn. Images of guys now are a lot more explicit but I wanted to go back and explore what gay men had to go through at that time,” says Sameshima.
While being thought provoking, there is also a visually pleasing side to Sameshima’s work. As well as screen-prints, the artist also creates zines and collage installations based around favourite models and celebrities. “I have binders and binders of pages from magazines; I have a binder for each model I’m obsessed with, the next one is Jarvis Cocker” says the artist who sees the use of these pictures as showing his “ultimate desire”.
Back to back with a group show also curated by Sameshima, his latest solo exhibition opens at Peres Projects in Berlin this month. Using LA based writer and “sexual outlaw” John Rechy as his ‘gay cultural icon’ Sameshima has created 30 screen prints of the novelist, using portraits of him taken from magazine covers, websites and books. Rechy’s use of his own personal life as a gay American Mexican in his acclaimed stories leaves him well placed as one of Sameshima’s reference points.
Dean’s art is a straight up combination of sex and politics. He mixes pictures of hot young guys with places and references that make us think about our history. Seemingly slightly at odds with current gay culture, he uses his art as a window to a previous period in time, to remind us of when things weren’t quite so easy. “With TV now, Ellen, Will and Grace, Sex and the City, the internet, advertising; gay culture is becoming mainstream. It’s great if you want to get married, and I do think we should all have equal privileges, but my work is just asking you to remember how things were back in the day, and the people that paved the way”.

Walter Von Beirendonck - SexClown collection, AnotherMan


Emerging in the mid 80’s as part of the ‘Antwerp 6’ alongside designers including Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck has consistently produced collections that balance an avant-garde look with an intimate feeling for fashion and trend.
Describing it as an “urge stronger than myself” his passion for the industry is unequivocal skipping just two seasons in his 25-year career. It is perhaps his understanding that while a vivid statement on the catwalk is significant it is also essential to filter that down to something buyable which has kept him working while other left field designers have died off. “I like to give people a feeling that there is still something happening. It is very important that fashion designers continue to change boundaries and make proposals about the industry, but still there has to be a base that is very wearable,” says Walt.


Using created characters inspired by a fascination with both digital avatars, something he sees as a ‘final evolution in the process of body manipulation’ and fetishism, while Walter has always been about statement and surprise this seasons ‘Sexclown’ collection pushes boundaries even by his standards. Playing with gender and body shape as well as bold colour and print he has created frame enhancing and waistline reducing corsets for men with designer Mr Pearl, masks and hats referencing African rituals in conjunction with Stephen Jones, and unforgiving full body rubber pieces.
Walt has allowed his creativity to run free with ‘Sexclown’ but an inherent knowledge of the customer, developed through his extensive career, is still very important to him stating clearly that “even if pieces from the show are seen as not wearable I feel like I am giving perfect propositions for what people can get instead of that. For me, if they go and buy a t-shirt that works in some of these ideas then that in itself is a real achievement”.

12 page fashion spread - Editorial, AnotherMan





With even London’s least loved areas now well and truly bought up, done up and sold off, the pockets of unwanted space previously taken over by artists, musicians and performers to show their work in has pretty much dried up.
Look hard enough, or get far enough out of the city though and you can still find them, un-jaded by brand involvement and uninspired by shameless self promotion.
Holding that perhaps ever so slightly naïve flame alive are three spaces in deepest darkest Shadwell and the almost unnecessary Kings Cross. With a community of people living and working around them, simply because being there gives them an outlet to do whatever it is they want to do, Phillipa Horan’s Hats Plus exhibition space and Shadwell local’s local, bingo club and (bizarrely) performance art venue The George, along with the nearby The Old Ship gallery, are part of a dying breed of innocently creative venues.

Saturday, 20 December 2008

Matthew Stone and Spartacus Chetwynd in conversation, Dazed and Confused


In a cold artist studio in Clapham, surrounded by cardboard box monsters and slightly off-putting rubber objects resembling six-fingered dildos – “That’s for six women, or three women and three men… or even six men” – sits Spartacus Chetwynd and Matthew Stone. Spartacus is a performance artist who combines historical and current cultural references, and Matthew is an artist known for his grand, romantic and sometimes baroque photographs, recently exhibited at Terence Koh’s gallery in New York. Old friends and artistic collaborators, we brought them together to talk about their work, and why they feel 2007 has validated each of them.

Spartacus Chetwynd: Do you remember when we first met, in that horrible Hoxton club, and you asked me to do my Michael Jackson performance with you?
Matthew Stone: I was jealous when I found out you had re-enacted ‘Thriller’. I asked you to do the performance because I desperately wanted to play Michael Jackson.
SC: The space at your squat in Peckham that we performed it in was fantastic. The party afterwards was amazing. There were kids there from the local estate, art school kids, fashion kids with bow ties made out of bin bags. I remember those Liverpudlian guys running up the walls and doing back flips. You were a great Michael Jackson. You were sincerely into it, and your costume was brilliant. That’s what made me decide to work with you actually, that sealed the deal.
MS: I really loved your DIY aesthetic, that’s why I pushed for us to work together. Obviously, you create your work yourself from what you find, and what you produce is in a way a by-product of your work, rather than a purely aesthetic consideration.
SC: The aesthetic is definitely a by-product. I don’t mean for things to look like that. I just have this impatient drive to create. Previously, I wasn’t able to understand why people described my work as punk or DIY, because in a way I find punk oppressive. There has been enough distance now though, and I can see the term punk as simply meaning a hands-on approach.
MS: There is this cheap idea that punk is about being disaffected with society. People think it’s about saying ‘fuck everything’, but in a sense, it’s a parody of the apathy of society, it was actually incredibly passionate and action-based.
SC: When someone says to me, ‘Do you want to be associated with something like punk?’ for me, that’s when alarm bells start ringing. I’m a girl to start with, I’m compassionate and humanitarian. I think the problem I have with being attached to that description is I want to remain conscious and cautious in my work, to a certain degree. That is something that doesn’t really fit with the idea of punk. You probably don’t though do you? You let yourself go more than me, and probably have a much better time doing it. I think perhaps you explore things much more intensely.
MS: I don’t know about that because sometimes I think I’m tame. In fact though it’s all about proportion isn’t it? Your work is sensitive – that’s the difference between you and punk ideals. You have impulses towards being really socially engaged, both in the message you are conveying and by using a troupe of actors and involving the audience in the performances themselves. I think that’s the difference between your work and mine. A lot of what I do can be accused of being elitist.
SC: I don’t think it’s elitist. You’re just not insulting people’s intelligence. A lot of people believe the general public are not capable of processing ideas, but that isn’t true, the public are smarter than they are often given credit for.
MS: I don’t think artists should ever dilute what they do so it’s easier to understand. Art should be something that everyone has access to, but I don’t think it should be an artist’s intention to be accessible.
SC: It’s about communicating, but not patronising. At the moment though, because of this massive rise in the art market, there is pressure to be accessible, so your work is saleable. There is a link as well between this overshadowing pressure to create a desirable ‘art’ product and the recent resurgence in performance art. It is almost a reaction to that by artists. By making performance work you are at least side stepping that consumer led process. You are dancing a little bit instead of directly handing over to the buyer.
I changed my name to Spartacus, because I felt cornered by the art world and the art market. I felt I had to take control of my identity. I saw Spartacus as a figure of solidarity, I realised you can’t take on the art market and win – you’re going to be shot down. The analogy of using Spartacus is quite funny because although he tried to do good, he ended up being crucified. Do you feel like you are in control of your identity?
MS: A lot of what I do is about story-telling and mythology. Ultimately, I’m interested in creating history and moments, events in culture. In terms of marketing myself as ‘Matthew Stone’, I use myself as a character within that story. It’s interesting hearing you talk about being cornered by the art world. A lot of this year, for me, has been about engaging with the art world. It was the year that I did my first proper gallery show and became a part of the gallery system and I felt as if I was going to lose a bit of myself by doing that. I ask myself a lot of the time ‘what the fuck am I doing and why should anyone listen to you’? This year has been really good on that level because I have had a lot of opportunities that have given me creative freedom. It has all been artist led and I have ended up in a position where I can do what I want and people want me to do it. I get the feeling now that the people running shows and exhibitions are thinking “go on, fuck up the gallery, great”, and actually that is quite freeing because it gives you the opportunity to do exactly what you want. That’s a great context to exist in.
SC: My year has been similar. I have also become a part of the more main-stream art system and realised that it doesn’t have to be restrictive. My gallery made an amazing catalogue of all the booklets that were given away at my performances. I used to think that to become a part of the system, to hand yourself over to that would mean that the fun would be taken out of it. I was really scared by that. But the fact that this book turned out to be really beautiful showed me that there are people involved in the industry who are actually okay, and incredibly talented. When I first saw the book, I started crying. It was so reassuring to know that people within officialdom weren’t actually wankers, that they were completely brilliant. It made me feel that doing what I am doing is totally worth it. It was complete validation.
MS: My name is in that book somewhere.
SC: Well, that can be your year’s validation too, then.

www.myspace.com/artshaman
www.heraldst.com/artists

Friday, 19 December 2008

Photographer Cheryl Dunn, Dazed and Confused



A camera, in many cases, is the key to the door, the perfect excuse to get you somewhere you would normally have no access to. For photographer and documentary filmmaker Cheryl Dunn, it is this allowed access that has become the underlying theme throughout her work.
Interested in both America and the world’s obsession with Mike Tyson in the nineties, Cheryl started her career by managing to get herself and her camera inside the world of boxing. “I had an insight into a culture that was really hard to penetrate, I got a view into the different facets of that scene. I was interested in the people in that world, the guys boxing, the women hanging off their arms, the rich men investing and the way people watching the fights dress.”
Fight Fan, shot outside a Las Vegas Michael Moorer fight in 1994 (pictured), show’s a guy in a matching fake leopard skin T-shirt and shorts combination. “That guy was great, I had taken a few shots without him noticing but he finally saw me and I wanted to get a picture where he knew I was looking at him.
“Boxing has a strong element of exclusivity, both because of the money but also because of the macho nature of the sport. If you are involved you cannot be seen to be weak. That fan looked both vulnerable and outlandish, he was representing power but seemed timid.”
“I think I am attracted to the underdog, I became really interested in the way the investors and promoters would use the boxers to make all the money, while the fighters themselves didn’t do so well.” It was seeing these different sides to a situation that inspired Dunn to look inside other closed worlds.
Born into a blue-collar family she sees her work as a comment on the American class system. “I wanted to get out of the world I was born into. I am attracted to people trying to get onto another level. It’s that pure effort and drive that comes from having nothing, because if you have nothing, you have nothing to lose.”
Since then she has gone on to photograph for various magazines including Vogue, Tokion, Paper, Nylon and Dazed, and recently has been focusing on a group of her friends, artists living in New York such as Barry Mcgee, Ed Templeton and Chris Johanson. Originally filming them putting on a group show in Tokyo; “basically this rich shop owner wanted to put on the exhibition, gave everyone mobile phones, cash, paid for them to live and let them run around Tokyo and get fucked up”, the film became the catalyst for her first book Some Kinda Vocation. “I wanted to document what art is before business gets involved, when it is purely about the joy of creating”.
It is this combination of documenting people on the fringes of society, observing the creation of something, and her sense of conscience that makes the pictures unique. “Photography can be viewed as exploitative, but I am very aware of that, I don’t want to get in the way or ride the back of peoples success. Being allowed to document this work being made, and to show other people that process through my photographs, is a privileged situation to be in and I am definitely sensitive to that”.